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        General >> Problems >> MOT Failure
        
(Message started by: clarkster on Oct 25^th, 2006, 6:43pm)

Title: MOT Failure
Post by clarkster on Oct 25^th, 2006, 6:43pm

Hi there, took my N reg 24v Ultima for its MOT today and it failed on a few points.

1. Left had headlight still set for continental driving - not a problem.

2. Both front brake hoses need replaced - sourcing parts and not too worried.

3. Excessive play in drivers side steering rack ball joint - Slightly concerned about availability of ball joint repair kit, dont really want to replace whole rack!

4. MOT tester could not get a good reading on the emmissions - very puzzled and perplexed!

While trying to do the fast idle test, my cars revs would not stay steady enough to take a proper reading, even though the pedal was firmly held at the same position. The revs kept climbing up and then a minute or so later backed off again.

A while ago I took off the left hand inlet manifold to repair a vacuum leak on a pipe from the T pieces. Im wondering if I need to replace the gasket after disturbing it, i did wipe some instant gasket over it before refitting.

The other cause could be that the previous owner fitted an exhaust from a starion turbo from the centre box rearwards. Would a reduction in back pressure cause erratic revving and excessive hydrocarbon?

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by Dave on Oct 25^th, 2006, 6:59pm

Fair chance of an air leak if you didn't replace the inlet gaskets, sometimes you may be lucky but best to replace. Can you hear anything in that area?

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by clarkster on Oct 25^th, 2006, 7:04pm

Cant hear anything when its running, there is a slight hiss sometimes, right after turning off, but havent tracked it down. Im going to get a pair of gaskets and start from there I think?

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by Dave on Oct 25^th, 2006, 7:08pm

In the area sort of behind the drivers side headlight there is a black cylindrical thing that should have 2 pipes attached via a connector. Check this is tight and probably attached too. Is the performance ok?

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by clarkster on Oct 25^th, 2006, 7:19pm

performance seems fine. It was lumpy running when i first got it so i dont have a benchmark to compare from. Will have a look for the black cylinder thing in the morning, cheers

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by clarkster on Oct 26^th, 2006, 7:35pm

As posted in the wanted parts bit, I am most chuffed with my local FMD. Although a repair kit as such doesnt exist for the rack, they were able to find all the parts needed individually by finis numbers. This all came to the fraction of an already reasonable cost quoted for a new rack by a motor factors. Just need to sort my revving problem and then I might crack a smile this week!

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by twinturbo on Oct 26^th, 2006, 8:15pm

are't the inlet gaskets part of a full set..

TT

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by clarkster on Oct 26^th, 2006, 8:21pm

not sure, was planning to make my own gaskets

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by Dave on Oct 26^th, 2006, 9:02pm

Inlet manifold gaskets can be bought separately, details correct as of January this year when I purchased them from Ford:

"Gasket - Plenum/Cyl. Head"
Part Code 1006844 - need 2 of these, 1 for each manifold.

Cheers

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by clarkster on Oct 27^th, 2006, 2:05pm

:) do you remember how much they were?

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by solarpanel on Oct 27^th, 2006, 2:11pm

try this for gaskets etc www.bgautomotive.co.uk[ search by model] as for revs look at the rubber joint on left side manifold at back mine leaked the other day revs up/down etc

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by Dave on Oct 27^th, 2006, 2:15pm

Ooooh hang on...

...I can't find the bill just now - BUT I have the total price:

2 inlet manifold gaskets
6 injector seals
2 throttle body O rings

TOTAL £17.03p :D

Reckon you're on about £14-15 quid mate.

This was the price in January 2006.
Bought the same stuff in December 2004 for £15.83 :)

Hope this helps.

Title: Re: MOT Failure
Post by clarkster on Oct 28^th, 2006, 7:55pm

Thanks for those.

I might not need them after all though. was fiddling about this afternoon and decided to disconnect and block the vacuum pipe to the EGR. After doing that, I could then maintain a steady 2500 rpm no problem at all.

I would have thought a faulty EGR would retard the revs, not cause them to race? Does anyone know if there are any long term problems associated with a disconnected EGR? Im tempted just to leave it disconnected rather than try to replace it?