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Topic: bloody heaters (Read 984 times) |
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rs155
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bloody heaters
« on: Nov 7th, 2006, 4:51pm » |
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hi there i have just got my self a 24v cosswort scorpio. and im ust say its great apart from.
it does not like to idle when cold (not to much of a problem)
and........
the heaters will not get warm or hot just cold. 
i have checked the reset thing and then they will work for about 5 - 10 secs with warm air then they just go cold again.
does anyone know why it does this.
the pipes all seem to have the same temp in and out of the engine.
any help would be most welcomed....
thanks in advance.. 
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Dave2302
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2006 Mercedes S55 AMG, Retired Barefoot Waterskier
Posts: 1119
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #1 on: Nov 7th, 2006, 6:07pm » |
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Hi RS,
Your heater matrix is blocked. 
These cars suffer with this and I'm afraid I tried everything, descaling chemicals, flushing, back flushing, airlines etc and in the end I admitted defeat.
Had to strip out the airbags, centre console, steering wheel, facia clocks, dash assembly, O/S plenum and heater hoses, then remove heater unit and fit new heater matrix. Matrix is approx £108 from Fords. Its not a nice job but its not nice having a luke warm heater either.
Once it is done the car is lovely and warm 
FMD quoted me over a grand to do the labour and parts so I did it myself, but I do stress it ain't a nice job to do !
There is an article on here about it, tells you exactly what to do, but I found it easier to completely remove the dash so you can get at it all easily.
I'm sure someone will post you a link as I still can't do link thingys LOL! (Sorry Simmo, still haven't sussed it !)
Good Luck, Regards
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Dave "The 'ol Bear" ex Footer !
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Dave2302
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2006 Mercedes S55 AMG, Retired Barefoot Waterskier
Posts: 1119
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #3 on: Nov 7th, 2006, 7:13pm » |
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Hi Stuart,
Ok I'll correct my english;
Its almost blocked 
He said it blows hot for a short while then goes cold.
Mine did exactly the same, and if you turn the fan off for 2-3 minutes, the matrix warms up again then when you put the fan on it'll blow warm and then go cold again etc. etc.....
Thats because most of the vanes are blocked or almost blocked, so with no air going over the matrix it warms up, but when you put the fan on the cold air cools it down quicker than the water can keep it hot. A heating engineer would talk of Latent heat transfer and such.
In my case the heater rad was knacked !!
i.e. most of it was blocked
Believe me I tried everything, no one wants to fit a heater rad, but eventually you freeze and take the bull by the horns LOL
Regards
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Dave "The 'ol Bear" ex Footer !
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Highlander
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13 Scorpios, XR4x4, Suzuki SJ413 for off road :)
Posts: 8244
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #4 on: Nov 7th, 2006, 7:21pm » |
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not convinced 
RS do you get full heat with the temp set at HI?
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:I give up !  Too much for an old boy!  |
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DJWerkz
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I would check the motor switches on the heater matrix box too. I had similar problems when I got my 24v.
In the end it turned out to be a number of different things and I had to replace the matrix (I've submitted a full description of doing this in the past including making sure you get the right matrix as most motor factors think the 24v uses the Sierra matrix,...IT DOSN'T!), my heater box had been 'butchered' by a previous owner so that had to be replaced (I found the motor switch mounts to be faulty too), replaced all motor switches too.
I also put the t-piece pipe mod in the hose line where it snakes real bad at entry to matrix in engine bay. This t-piece mod has a bleed valve on top making it easy to remove any air locks which are notorious in this hose line.
I also got my matrix from Kempston radiators in Kempston, Bedfordshire. They were less expensive than the Ford unit and they worked with me in making sure we got the correct matrix (which has the same external dimensions as the Sierra unit but internal core size is different being larger).
My system blows so hot I can not run it at full temp.
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rs155
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #6 on: Nov 8th, 2006, 8:20am » |
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thanks for all the replies guys.
highlander, i do get a bit of heat with the temp up to full but only for about 10 secs then just goes stone cold again. a bit like what dave said i then have to wait ages with the heaters off just to get another quick blast off air. 
anyhow thanks for the info.....
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Highlander
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13 Scorpios, XR4x4, Suzuki SJ413 for off road :)
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #7 on: Nov 8th, 2006, 8:30am » |
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Ok i'm convinced
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on Oct 17th, 2011, 12:35pm, Simmo wrote:| I give up ! Too much for an old boy! |
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Jonnycab
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Former owner of 2.3 Ultima Facelift saloon
Posts: 3900
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #8 on: Nov 8th, 2006, 11:45am » |
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If you are going to change the matrix, then it is not necessary to strip out the airbags. The consol can be pulled out enough without having to do so.
I changed my matrix earlier on this year & I found that if you remove the pivot bolt on the brake pedal (auto) & swing the pedal sideways, it gives more room when trying to pull the matrix clear. Be careful not to break the plungers on the brake light & cruise control switches that are located in front of the pedal.
I cable tied the brake pedal to the accelerator.......
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rs155
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #9 on: Nov 8th, 2006, 4:11pm » |
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ok thanks for the tip mate.
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Dave2302
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2006 Mercedes S55 AMG, Retired Barefoot Waterskier
Posts: 1119
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Re: bloody heaters
« Reply #10 on: Nov 8th, 2006, 6:11pm » |
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Hi again,
I wrote earlier:-
"There is an article on here about it, tells you exactly what to do, but I found it easier to completely remove the dash so you can get at it all easily."
My point was:-
I know it can be done by pulling the dash backwards and fiddling around it, but having done a few heater matrix's (or is that matrii ), over the years, I always find it easier to just pull the dash and all associated bits right out of the car. Then you can get round the heater real easy to get it on a bench and replace the matrix. At the same time you can give the whole unit a service, cleaning it out and checking the functions of all the flaps motors, switches etc.
Whilst the dash is out check and double check all electrical wiring and plugs, and test all the little illumination bulbs and other bits and pieces as you put it all back together.
IMHO This just makes a real nice job of it and ensures you wont be doing the dash out bit again for a long while. If you were tied to time of course you wouldn't do all these little extras, but as it's your own car its just false economy time wise not to.
Regards,
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Dave "The 'ol Bear" ex Footer !
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