YES:

1. Check that all leads have been reconnected - a small lead is often missed

2. Was ignition left on when battery was reconnected? This powers up the modules in the wrong order - disconnect battery, turn ignition and all electrical loads off first, then reconnect battery again.

3. No voltage to INJectors with ignition turned on? - faulty fuel pump relay, replace

NO:

1.  Check the PATS led on top of dashboard.  Is it flashing a code?

2. Check Injection Cut-Off switch in boot

3. Check Fuses F16 and F17 in main fuse box

4. Check F31, F34, F37 and F42 in auxiliary fuse box

5.  Check Relay R17 and R19 in Auxiliary fuse box

6. Get OBD reading - suspect CKP or CMP sensors

7. Check main fuse box for water contamination

YES:

Fuel pressure regulator faulty - excess FR pressure

YES:

Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

YES:

1. Vehicles built before June 1996 - Arnitel wiring looms

2. Vehicle built after 06/96 - fuse box contamination

YES:

Check fuel injection relay with ignition turned off and on again - INJectors are switched off after 1 second of turning without a cylinder firing to protect catalyst(s)

YES:

1. Low battery - check brightness of headlights

2. Starter solenoid stuck/contacts dirty

NO:

Battery completely flat

YES:

1. Insufficient charge in battery to close the solenoid - battery or alternator failing

2. Dirty/worn starter solenoid contacts - clean or replace

YES:

1. Check Starter Inhibitor Relay R11 in central fuse box

2. Check gear selector linkage

YES:

1. Check fuses F31, F34, F37, F42

2. OBD check for faulty CKP sensor and/or CMP sensor

YES:

1. Clean contacts on Fuel Pump Relay - if too hot to the touch it is faulty - replace

STARTS BUT POOR RUNNING

YES:

1. Check engine loom for cracked wiring - DOHC

2. Check ignition modules - DOHC

3. Check all spark plugs are tight, ignition leads

4. Check TPS position in OBD - should be 16%

5. Check inlet manifold(s) for air leaks

6. DOHC2300 check plastic inlet manifold for cracks

7. Clean IACV valve

YES:

1. Petrol tank empty

2. Air leak in petrol filler pipe

3. Leak in EVAP system

4. Leak in Vacuum system

5. Work through Idle Probs

YES:

1. Catalyst element broken - impeding exhaust flow

YES:

1. Water inside spark plug cavities after jetwashing

YES:

1. Check engine loom - DOHC

2. Check condition of EGR valve (all engines)

3. Check via OBD for EGR faults - loose pipe

4. Check via OBD for flatlining HO2S sensor(s)

5. Check for air inlet leaks

YES:

1. Check spark plugs for tightness

2. Check condition of HT leads

2. 12V V6 - check distributor cap and rotor arm, clean/replace

YES:

1. Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

2. Fuel filter not changed

3. Check OBD for fuel pump DTCs

YES:

1. Clean IACV valve and/or replace

2. Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

YES:

1. Effect of VIS on power curve

YES:

MAF unit failed closed or open circuit

YES:

Check air inlet hose was not dislodged by leaning on it

YES:

Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch faulty or disconnected

YES:

AC Compressor seized: disconnect electrical plug on top of compressor until it can be replaced

RUNS WELL BUT ...

YES:

1. Check spark plugs and leads, air filter (service)

2. Check tyre pressures

3. Dirty/gummed INJectors - use injector cleaner

4. Check Brakes for binding

5. Check via OBD for OPEN LOOP fuelling - Faulty/dirty MAF/faulty HO2S sensors

6. Autos - check rpm at 70mph - is the Torque Converter Clutch locking up correctly?

7. Faulty thermostat - stuck open

8. Faulty ECT or IAT - causing 'cold' fuelling

9. Faulty Autobox or torque converter

YES:

Throttle plate gummed up - clean inside throttle body with carb cleaner around throttle plate (butterfly)

YES:

1. Timing chain rattle, offside tensioner draining overnight

2. Loose catalyst flange bolts

3. Worn drive-belt tensioner - run briefly with drive belt off to confirm

4.  Recently changed oil to Synthetic? Oil frothing as it mixes - this will pass.

YES:

1. Loose exhaust manifold to catalyst flange

YES:

1. Worn drive-belts

YES:

1. Worn drive-belt tensioner

2. A/C Compressor worn or gas pressure low

3. Power Steering pump worn or fluid low

---- confirm above by briefly running without drive belt -----

4. Broken catalyst ceramic element

5. 24V 'Tick' noise - Timing chain slapping

YES:

12V tappets are hydraulic and should not need adjusting - if noisy check:

1. Correct grade of oil (5W-30 mineral, 10W-30 semi-synthetic) and use an oil flush treatment and good quality oil filter

2. Recently changed oil to Synthetic? Oil frothing as it mixes - this will pass

3. Run a compression test to determine level of engine wear - check oil pressure when hot at idle - engine may need full overhaul in the long term

YES:

1. Check MAF for correct reading

2. OBD check - Flatlining HO2S sensors leading to OPEN LOOP

3. OBD check - switch-rate of post catalyst HO2S - catalyst(s) failing

YES:

1.  Check coolant for HC or CO contamination BEFORE deciding that cylinder head gasket has failed.

2.  Change Thermostat before replacing radiator

NO:

Replace radiator - 24V owners recommended to change thermostat as well

YES:

Leak between V of cylinder heads effecting Loom

Cannot find leak?

YES:

1. Check bottom of bellhousing for coolant - rear core plug leaking behind flywheel/driveplate

NO CLUTCH JUDDER:

2. Leaking core plugs on each side of engine block

3. Check oil/coolant heat exchanger at oil filter

4. Check carpets beneath car heater - leak from matrix

5. 24V - check between V of cylinder heads for heater pipe

6. Check water pump spindle

YES:

1. Automatics - check condition of autobox fluid - coolant radiator may be leaking into gearbox fluid thru heat exchanger in coolant radiator

YES:

Water pump spindle leaking

YES:

YES:

Check small upper hose on expansion tank for blockage

YES:

1. Check thermostat opening in hot water, 88°C - replace

2. Check fans operating:

A. Both fans come on when hot, and/or when AC/CC is switched on

B.  Both fans come on at high speed when very hot.

3. Radiator blockage - drain, flush and back-flush system, refill with good-quality antifreeze, 60%

YES:

Fluid overheated caused by failing drive bands, black bits are worn seals - failure imminent

NO:

Fluid still pink - sticking solenoid needs replacing only.

YES:

YES:

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) faulty

NO:

1. Solenoids sticking/faulty

2. Transmission Range (TR) sensor faulty

3. Wiring fault/ faulty multiplug into gearbox

YES:

Autobox failure imminent

NO:

1. Check fluid level when hot on level surface - if low top up and check for cause of fluid leak

2. Main line pressure solenoid sticking, check OBD

YES:

Check autobox coolant pipes behind radiator

YES:

Cattle grid syndrome

YES:

1. Clean MAF

2. Test MAF and replace if necessary

YES:

Old EECV programming

Idle poor? Surging?

YES:

Check TPS value. Should be 16% - if lower then this may set the DTC P0122. If so, disconnect battery for 30 seconds to force a resynch.

YES:

1. Door ajar switch is broken/shorted

2. Maladjusted selector lever

3. Faulty TR (PRNGL) sensor

YES:

Consider changing autobox filter and fluid

Refuses to engage higher gears?

YES:

1. VSS sensor faulty

YES:

OBDII does not apply to the 12V A4LD autobox - use STAR codes instead

YES:

1. Rear core plug leaking into bellhousing contaminating clutch

NO:

1. Poss. rear oil seal leaking, contaminating clutch plate

2. Broken clutch plate spring(s)

YES:

Broken/seized thrust bearing

NO:

Worn clutch driven plate - replace asap or clutch pressure plate will be damaged

YES:

1. Clutch hydraulic fluid low/leaking, air in system

YES:

Driven plate worn

NO:

1. Contaminated driven plate dragging on pressure plate

2. Badly adjusted clutch pedal travel

YES:

Broken flywheel spigot bush (first motion shaft bush in flywheel).

YES:

Worn thrust bearing

NO:

Drive belts worn

All models

YES:

Check Centre Bearing

NO:

1. Check Rubber flexible bearing (doughnut)

2. Check Universal joints on propshaft

YES:

1. Propshaft out of balance - flange bolts not replaced correctly

2. Check Differential insulator mounting plate

3. Check drive shaft CV joints

YES:

Replace CV joints on the side of the turn, outer first.

YES:

1. Preload on diff pinion nut worn out

2. Worn differential gear teeth

NO:

Check CV joints on rear drive shafts (4)

NO:

1. Check for excessive tyre pressures

2. Check rear hubnuts

3. Noises from rear on corners - failing rear hub bearings

YES:

1. Check wear on track rod ends, steering rack bushes

2. Check lower ball joint on front radius arms

3. Check inner radius arm bushes

YES:

1. Check tracking

YES:

Under-inflated tyre pressures

YES:

1. Excessive toe-in.  Check tracking

2. Check track rods for damage

3. Check steering rack bushes, radius arm bushes

YES:

1. Excessive toe-out - check tracking

2. Check steering rack bushes, radius arm bushes

YES

Over inflated tyre pressures - check

YES:

1. Check tie rod on anti-roll bar

2. Loose front brake pads

3. Brake Calliper seized on mounting bolts so not centering

YES:

Check radius arm bushes for movement of pin inside rubber bush

YES:

Check radius arm bushes - try squirting with WD40  - if it silences the noise they need changing.

YES:

Check radius arm bushes by lifting wheels and pulling pushing them while watching the two rubber bushes connecting the radius arm to the subframe - any movement, replace.

YES:

Steering wheel not centred with steering column

NO:

1. Indicator cancel bush on steering column broken

2. Indicator switch broken

YES:

1. Front wheel(s) rim dented

2. Tyres out of balance

NO:

Warped tyre, wheel damage

YES:

1. Check rear link arms

2. Lower shock absorber bushes worn

3. Check top shock absorber mounting bolt beneath carpet in boot/luggage deck - torque to 85 Nm

YES:

No fault - steering is readjusting to loaded condition, judder will pass quickly

NO:

Steering design fault - high pressure steering pipe needs replacing with updated design

YES:

1. Rear hub nut loose (after work carried out)

YES:

1. Top hose leaking beneath reservoir - trim or replace

2. Steering rack bush(es) failed - fluid in steering bellows (gaiters) - replace steering rack

YES:

Light corrosion on brake disk

NO:

1. Brake disks warped/corroded

2. Worn/failing bushes on front suspension radius arms

YES:

Brake pads worn - replace brake pads

YES:

1. Cable fulcrum outside rear calliper seized

2. Rear calliper internals not self-adjusting brake piston

NO:

1. Badly corroded rear brake disks

YES:

No fault - front brake callipers adjust themselves and need more fluid from master reservoir

NO:

Sudden drop in brake fluid means a fluid leak - check all calipers and master cylinder for source of leak

YES:

No fault - ABS module tests the modulator by firing each solenoid in turn during the moving ABS test.  This can cause an odd sensation very occasionally if you are  braking lightly at the same time.

ABS light illuminates

YES:

ABS Start-up diagnostic test fails - no ABS operation, but brakes will still operate.  MOT fail. Sensor or module or modulator fault

YES:

ABS Running diagnostic test fails - MOT fail.  OBD ISO/PWM leads can read ABS codes.

1. Check tyre pressures for high variance

2. Failing wheel hub or loose hub nut

3. Faulty sensor

4. Faulty ABS controller

Over uneven ground?

1. Turn engine off and restart - if light goes out and remains out No Fault

2: If light comes on again follow advice on ABS Faults

3. The TCS shares only the rear ABS sensors, so if the TCS light illuminates as well as the ABS check those sensors first.

NO:

Fuse box or auxillary waterlogged

YES:

Battery shelf drain holes blocked

YES:

Check rear of headlight switch - overheated and shorting

YES:

Check underneath main Fuse box for loose/faulty connection

YES:

Central Timer module faulty.

Use diagnostic to find the error with the central timer:

A. Switch on ignition
B. Hold in rear heated windscreen button for a count of 10.
C. While holding the button in, start engine

D. Release button.
E. The unit is now in diagnostic mode. everything which uses the unit will beep to indicate it's fully operational.
i.e. open a door and if the door switch is ok, you will get a beep to confirm this.

YES:

Battery Saver relay (R16 in auxiliary fuse box) faulty

Instrument lights fail?

YES:

Check rear of headlights switch for loose connection/overheated multiplug

YES:

Check rear of headlights switch pin 15 for loose/overheated connection

YES:

No fault - Reprogram the window positions: fully lower the window then press and hold the down button for 1 second, raise the window till closed and press and hold up button for 1 second.

NO:

1. Try reprogramming as above - system volts may have dropped too low.

2. Change door module

YES:

Seat module blown - replace

YES:

No fault - Modules resetting

NO:

1. Voltage drops below reset level - discharge test battery - replace

2. Check alternator output - use Instrument reset to read voltage

3. Instruments don't work? Check module

YES:

1. Button contacts dirty - dismantle - careful because of springs - and clean with switch cleaner or suitable solvent

2  Replace unit (FINIS 7142892)

YES:

Faulty soldering on instrument module board

YES:

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) faulty

YES:

1. Check alternator diodes pack

2. Check discharge rate - short to earth

YES:

1. Check multiplug beneath battery shelf

2. Check alternator output - diode pack fault

YES:

Low battery voltage - Check battery

YES:

Bulb blown - replace asap because battery is not charging when this bulb has blown

YES:

1. Airbags will not fire while this light flashes and is an MOT fail.  Common problem is the clock spring connection loose beneath airbag in steering wheel

2. The airbag light flashes a code: a single flash is code 1, 2 flashes and a pause is code 2 etc.

YES:

1. Lighting loom chafing on plastic loom cover - check the loom at the hinge and repair as necessary

2. Corrosion/damp on rear light units bulb connections

YES:

1. The door ajar warning switch is included in the locking module on each door - replace

YES:

1. Check that fuel cut-off switch is fully depressed

YES:

1. Check bonnet switch

2. Check system voltage not below 11 volts - failing battery/alternator

3. Check battery shelf is dry - if not clear drain holes

YES:

YES:

Check shatter-detectors on rear windows for open circuit - substitute 20 ohm resistor