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05/22/2006

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FAULT FINDING
 

Diagnostic Trouble Tree

There are more than 400 pages on this site, making it one of the most comprehensive single-car sites on the Web - if not the most.  However, this amount of exhaustive information can make diagnosis hard work, even with the FAQ page, but try there first - answers to the most common questions are already there and this remains a useful first lead.  Not finding the answer there means searching through the whole site in the hope of spotting something, or having to ask for a lead in the search.

So here is a another approach, a trouble-tree of problems and possible causes, with links to the pages where they exist. This represents the pooled knowledge of all the owners on the Scorpio Forum and the Mailing List over the last five years.  It is hoped that this will make fault-finding easier, especially for the new owner. 

NOTE: these faults represent the combined experience of over 2,300 owners on the Forum and over 400 members of the Mailing List - it is not to suggest that any Scorpio will develop all of these faults, or even any of them.  Some of these problems have proved to be very rare - there are many cars with over 180,000 miles on the clock without a single fault.  This is a useful reference only if a problem does occur and should not be seen as a prediction that it will.

Thanks to all contributors for their information, their enthusiasm for this project, and reminders where I had forgotten something !

ENGINE CONCERNS

Concern

Symptom

Advice

WILL NOT START

Was battery disconnected?

YES:

1. Check that all leads have been reconnected - a small lead is often missed

2. Was ignition left on when battery was reconnected? This powers up the modules in the wrong order - disconnect battery, turn ignition and all electrical loads off first, then reconnect battery again.

3. No voltage to INJectors with ignition turned on? - faulty fuel pump relay, replace

NO:

1.  Check the PATS led on top of dashboard.  Is it flashing a code?

2. Check Injection Cut-Off switch in boot

3. Check Fuses F16 and F17 in main fuse box

4. Check F31, F34, F37 and F42 in auxiliary fuse box

5.  Check Relay R17 and R19 in Auxiliary fuse box

6. Get OBD reading - suspect CKP or CMP sensors

7. Check main fuse box for water contamination

 

 When engine is hot?

YES:

Fuel pressure regulator faulty - excess FR pressure

 

 When engine is cold?

YES:

Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

 

With other electrical problems - lights coming on, fans running on, etc

YES:

1. Vehicles built before June 1996 - Arnitel wiring looms

2. Vehicle built after 06/96 - fuse box contamination

 

No power to INJectors?

YES:

Check fuel injection relay with ignition turned off and on again - INJectors are switched off after 1 second of turning without a cylinder firing to protect catalyst(s)

 

Starter clicks without engaging?

YES:

1. Low battery - check brightness of headlights

2. Starter solenoid stuck/contacts dirty

NO:

Battery completely flat

 

Starter rapid-clicks without engaging?

YES:

1. Insufficient charge in battery to close the solenoid - battery or alternator failing

2. Dirty/worn starter solenoid contacts - clean or replace

 

Automatic - starter will not operate?

YES:

1. Check Starter Inhibitor Relay R11 in central fuse box

2. Check gear selector linkage

 

Engine turns over but does not fire?

YES:

1. Check fuses F31, F34, F37, F42

2. OBD check for faulty CKP sensor and/or CMP sensor

 

ENGINE STARTS BUT DIES

Will not restart?

YES:

1. Clean contacts on Fuel Pump Relay - if too hot to the touch it is faulty - replace

 

STARTS BUT POOR RUNNING

 

Idle poor?

YES:

1. Check engine loom for cracked wiring - DOHC

2. Check ignition modules - DOHC

3. Check all spark plugs are tight, ignition leads

4. Check TPS position in OBD - should be 16%

5. Check inlet manifold(s) for air leaks

6. DOHC2300 check plastic inlet manifold for cracks

7. Clean IACV valve

 

Racing idle?

YES:

1. Petrol tank empty

2. Air leak in petrol filler pipe

3. Leak in EVAP system

4. Leak in Vacuum system

5. Work through Idle Probs

 

Sudden loss of power - severe rattle from engine area?

YES:

1. Catalyst element broken - impeding exhaust flow

 

Severe misfire - loss of power?

YES:

1. Water inside spark plug cavities after jetwashing

 

Missing at part throttle?

YES:

1. Check engine loom - DOHC

2. Check condition of EGR valve (all engines)

3. Check via OBD for EGR faults - loose pipe

4. Check via OBD for flatlining HO2S sensor(s)

5. Check for air inlet leaks

 

Slight idle misfire?

YES:

1. Check spark plugs for tightness

2. Check condition of HT leads

2. 12V V6 - check distributor cap and rotor arm, clean/replace

 

Lack of power - pinking?

YES:

1. Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

2. Fuel filter not changed

3. Check OBD for fuel pump DTCs

 

Engine stalls when hot?

YES:

1. Clean IACV valve and/or replace

2. Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

 

Flat spot - 24V?

YES:

1. Effect of VIS on power curve

 

Engine races then stalls?

YES:

MAF unit failed closed or open circuit

 

Runs rough when hot - after work on engine?

YES:

Check air inlet hose was not dislodged by leaning on it

 

Engine stalls when steering to full lock?

YES:

Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch faulty or disconnected

 

Engine tries to stall - acrid smoke trailing behind - squeal from drive belt?

YES:

AC Compressor seized: disconnect electrical plug on top of compressor until it can be replaced

 

RUNS WELL BUT ...

 

Heavy fuel Consumption?

YES:

1. Check spark plugs and leads, air filter (service)

2. Check tyre pressures

3. Dirty/gummed INJectors - use injector cleaner

4. Check Brakes for binding

5. Check via OBD for OPEN LOOP fuelling - Faulty/dirty MAF/faulty HO2S sensors

6. Autos - check rpm at 70mph - is the Torque Converter Clutch locking up correctly?

7. Faulty thermostat - stuck open

8. Faulty ECT or IAT - causing 'cold' fuelling

9. Faulty Autobox or torque converter

 

Hanging Throttle - engine RPM high briefly after releasing accelerator

YES:

Throttle plate gummed up - clean inside throttle body with carb cleaner around throttle plate (butterfly)

 

24V: brief rattle on cold start?

YES:

1. Timing chain rattle, offside tensioner draining overnight

2. Loose catalyst flange bolts

3. Worn drive-belt tensioner - run briefly with drive belt off to confirm

4.  Recently changed oil to Synthetic? Oil frothing as it mixes - this will pass.

 

Chuffing noise when cold?

YES:

1. Loose exhaust manifold to catalyst flange

 

Squeal from front of engine, when cold/steering?

YES:

1. Worn drive-belts

 

Rattle from front of engine?

YES:

1. Worn drive-belt tensioner

2. A/C Compressor worn or gas pressure low

3. Power Steering pump worn or fluid low

---- confirm above by briefly running without drive belt -----

4. Broken catalyst ceramic element

5. 24V 'Tick' noise - Timing chain slapping

 

TAPPING NOISE FROM TOP OF ENGINE - 12V V6

Tappet(s) noisy?

YES:

12V tappets are hydraulic and should not need adjusting - if noisy check:

1. Correct grade of oil (5W-30 mineral, 10W-30 semi-synthetic) and use an oil flush treatment and good quality oil filter

2. Recently changed oil to Synthetic? Oil frothing as it mixes - this will pass

3. Run a compression test to determine level of engine wear - check oil pressure when hot at idle - engine may need full overhaul in the long term

 

FAILS MOT on EMISSIONS

HC or CO too high?

YES:

1. Check MAF for correct reading

2. OBD check - Flatlining HO2S sensors leading to OPEN LOOP

3. OBD check - switch-rate of post catalyst HO2S - catalyst(s) failing

 

COOLANT CONCERNS

Radiator leaking 24V - Radiator has 'ballooned' - vanes have swollen or expanded?

YES:

1.  Check coolant for HC or CO contamination BEFORE deciding that cylinder head gasket has failed.

2.  Change Thermostat before replacing radiator

NO:

Replace radiator - 24V owners recommended to change thermostat as well

 

Coolant loss 24V - gearbox DTCs?

YES:

Leak between V of cylinder heads effecting Loom

 

Cannot find leak?

also clutch judder?

YES:

1. Check bottom of bellhousing for coolant - rear core plug leaking behind flywheel/driveplate

NO CLUTCH JUDDER:

2. Leaking core plugs on each side of engine block

3. Check oil/coolant heat exchanger at oil filter

4. Check carpets beneath car heater - leak from matrix

5. 24V - check between V of cylinder heads for heater pipe

6. Check water pump spindle

 

Automatic?

YES:

1. Automatics - check condition of autobox fluid - coolant radiator may be leaking into gearbox fluid thru heat exchanger in coolant radiator

 

Coolant/rust sprayed across front of engine bay?

YES:

Water pump spindle leaking

 

CLEAR Water runs from rear of engine

AC/CC on and coolant level does not fall?

YES:

No fault - AC/CC Evaporator extracts moisture from humid air entering the cabin and this freezes on the heat exchanger plates.  This thaws as compressor cycles off and drains through tubes in the engine bulkhead

Overheating Bubbling noise - system slow to fill - airlocks?

YES:

Check small upper hose on expansion tank for blockage

 

Overheats in heavy traffic?

YES:

1. Check thermostat opening in hot water, 88C - replace

2. Check fans operating:

A. Both fans come on when hot, and/or when AC/CC is switched on

B.  Both fans come on at high speed when very hot.

3. Radiator blockage - drain, flush and back-flush system, refill with good-quality antifreeze, 60%

 

TRANSMISSION CONCERNS

Automatic Gearbox A4LDE?

 

 

Auto fails to select gear - revs rise then thumps into gear

Autobox dipstick shows fluid brown/burnt/black bits OBD shows DTCs ?

YES:

Fluid overheated caused by failing drive bands, black bits are worn seals - failure imminent

NO:

Fluid still pink - sticking solenoid needs replacing only.

 

Auto behaves oddly, selects wrong gear, odd noises but Fluid looks normal Worse after heavy rain or washing ?

YES:

 Autobox wiring loom fault

Speedo erratic?

YES:

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) faulty

NO:

1. Solenoids sticking/faulty

2. Transmission Range (TR) sensor faulty

3. Wiring fault/ faulty multiplug into gearbox

 

Several seconds to select D or N

Autobox dipstick shows fluid brown/burnt/black bits?

YES:

Autobox failure imminent

NO:

1. Check fluid level when hot on level surface - if low top up and check for cause of fluid leak

2. Main line pressure solenoid sticking, check OBD

 

Sudden loss of fluid

Fluid seen beneath radiator?

YES:

Check autobox coolant pipes behind radiator

 

Vibration felt when accelerating

Feels like a cattle grid?

YES:

Cattle grid syndrome

 

Autobox thumps into gear slightly

OBD DTC shows Incorrect ratio error?

YES:

1. Clean MAF

2. Test MAF and replace if necessary

 

 

Only when lifting off suddenly in 1st?

YES:

Old EECV programming

 

Idle poor? Surging?

DTC P1022 is set?

YES:

Check TPS value. Should be 16% - if lower then this may set the DTC P0122. If so, disconnect battery for 30 seconds to force a resynch.

 

Alarm sounds when gear selection is in P

Drivers door is closed?

YES:

1. Door ajar switch is broken/shorted

2. Maladjusted selector lever

3. Faulty TR (PRNGL) sensor

 

Noise from gearbox Turbine noise when starting from rest?

YES:

Consider changing autobox filter and fluid

 

Won't select upper gears

Refuses to engage higher gears?

 also speedo needle jumps or stays at 0?

YES:

1. VSS sensor faulty

2. Wiring loom fault

12V Autobox A4LD Need fault codes read?

YES:

OBDII does not apply to the 12V A4LD autobox - use STAR codes instead

 

Manual Gearbox  MT75

 

 

Clutch judder

Unexplained coolant loss?

YES:

1. Rear core plug leaking into bellhousing contaminating clutch

NO:

1. Poss. rear oil seal leaking, contaminating clutch plate

2. Broken clutch plate spring(s)

 

Clutch slips

Clicking from bellhousing when clutch is pressed?

YES:

Broken/seized thrust bearing

NO:

Worn clutch driven plate - replace asap or clutch pressure plate will be damaged

 

Clutch does not operate

Clutch pedal low resistance?

YES:

1. Clutch hydraulic fluid low/leaking, air in system

 

1st gear difficult to engage

Revs rise/clutch slips?

YES:

Driven plate worn

NO:

1. Contaminated driven plate dragging on pressure plate

2. Badly adjusted clutch pedal travel

 

NOise when gear engaged Graunching noise from bellhousing?  Gears difficult to engage?

YES:

Broken flywheel spigot bush (first motion shaft bush in flywheel).

 

High pitched squeal

When clutch operates?

YES:

Worn thrust bearing

NO:

Drive belts worn

 

All models

 

 

 

Vibration felt through floor Fades out above 45mph?

YES:

Check Centre Bearing

NO:

1. Check Rubber flexible bearing (doughnut)

2. Check Universal joints on propshaft

 

Felt at rear?

YES:

1. Propshaft out of balance - flange bolts not replaced correctly

2. Check Differential insulator mounting plate

3. Check drive shaft CV joints

 

Ticking noise when cornering/moving off CV joints on rear drive shafts loose?

YES:

Replace CV joints on the side of the turn, outer first.

 

Rumble on over-run Differential slack?

YES:

1. Preload on diff pinion nut worn out

2. Worn differential gear teeth

NO:

Check CV joints on rear drive shafts (4)

 

STEERING & SUSPENSION Concerns

Steering wanders Tyres worn?

NO:

1. Check for excessive tyre pressures

2. Check rear hubnuts

3. Noises from rear on corners - failing rear hub bearings

YES:

1. Check wear on track rod ends, steering rack bushes

2. Check lower ball joint on front radius arms

3. Check inner radius arm bushes

 

Steering pulls to one side Needs constant correction?

YES:

1. Check tracking

2. Check alignment of rear wheels for 'crabbing'

Front tyres abnormal wear On both inner/outer edges?

YES:

Under-inflated tyre pressures

 

On outer edge?

YES:

1. Excessive toe-in.  Check tracking

2. Check track rods for damage

3. Check steering rack bushes, radius arm bushes

 

On inner edge?

YES:

1. Excessive toe-out - check tracking

2. Check steering rack bushes, radius arm bushes

 

On centre of tyre only?

YES

Over inflated tyre pressures - check

 

Noises from front suspension? Light rattle on uneven ground?

YES:

1. Check tie rod on anti-roll bar

2. Loose front brake pads

3. Brake Calliper seized on mounting bolts so not centering

 

Graunching noise at low speeds when steering?

YES:

Check radius arm bushes for movement of pin inside rubber bush

 

Squeaking noise from front suspension?

YES:

Check radius arm bushes - try squirting with WD40  - if it silences the noise they need changing.

 

Clunk from front suspension over poor road surfaces?

YES:

Check radius arm bushes by lifting wheels and pulling pushing them while watching the two rubber bushes connecting the radius arm to the subframe - any movement, replace.

 

Indicator does not self-cancel? Cancels in one direction and not the other?

YES:

Steering wheel not centred with steering column

NO:

1. Indicator cancel bush on steering column broken

2. Indicator switch broken

 

'Shimmy' on steering? At low speed only?

YES:

1. Front wheel(s) rim dented

2. Tyres out of balance

NO:

Warped tyre, wheel damage

 

Rattle from rear On uneven surface?

YES:

1. Check rear link arms

2. Lower shock absorber bushes worn

3. Check top shock absorber mounting bolt beneath carpet in boot/luggage deck - torque to 85 Nm

 

Steering Judder at low speed Car been on full lift ramp?

YES:

No fault - steering is readjusting to loaded condition, judder will pass quickly

NO:

Steering design fault - high pressure steering pipe needs replacing with updated design

 

Rear tyres ABnormal wear Tyre worn on inside of tread: also brake wear on part of disk: also possible ABS fault light?

YES:

1. Rear hub nut loose (after work carried out)

1. Rear hub failing

Power steering fluid leak Fluid levels falls

YES:

1. Top hose leaking beneath reservoir - trim or replace

2. Steering rack bush(es) failed - fluid in steering bellows (gaiters) - replace steering rack

 

BRAKING CONCERNS

Brake judder

Only on light braking?

YES:

Light corrosion on brake disk

NO:

1. Brake disks warped/corroded

2. Worn/failing bushes on front suspension radius arms

 

Brakes 'snatch'

Difficult to 'feather' brakes to a stop?

YES:

Brake pads worn - replace brake pads

 

Handbrake does not hold

Too much handbrake lever movement?

YES:

1. Cable fulcrum outside rear calliper seized

2. Rear calliper internals not self-adjusting brake piston

NO:

1. Badly corroded rear brake disks

 

Brake fluid level falls

Very slowly?

YES:

No fault - front brake callipers adjust themselves and need more fluid from master reservoir

NO:

Sudden drop in brake fluid means a fluid leak - check all calipers and master cylinder for source of leak

 

Brake PEDAL VIBRATES oddly

Odd sensation on pedal under light braking and starting off?

YES:

No fault - ABS module tests the modulator by firing each solenoid in turn during the moving ABS test.  This can cause an odd sensation very occasionally if you are  braking lightly at the same time.

 

ABS light illuminates

 

On starting?

YES:

ABS Start-up diagnostic test fails - no ABS operation, but brakes will still operate.  MOT fail. Sensor or module or modulator fault

 

Above 11mph?

YES:

ABS Running diagnostic test fails - MOT fail.  OBD ISO/PWM leads can read ABS codes.

1. Check tyre pressures for high variance

2. Failing wheel hub or loose hub nut

3. Faulty sensor

4. Faulty ABS controller

 

Over uneven ground?

and TCS light on?

YES:

1. Turn engine off and restart - if light goes out and remains out No Fault

2: If light comes on again follow advice on ABS Faults

3. The TCS shares only the rear ABS sensors, so if the TCS light illuminates as well as the ABS check those sensors first.

 

ELECTRICAL CONCERNS

Lights stay on - fans stay on - other strange electrical gremlins

Battery cover fitted?

NO:

Fuse box or auxillary waterlogged

YES:

Battery shelf drain holes blocked

 

Headlights stay on

Headlights switched off?

YES:

Check rear of headlight switch - overheated and shorting

 

Headlights  fail to come on

Headlights (or other single circuit) dead?

YES:

Check underneath main Fuse box for loose/faulty connection

 

electric systems fail to work Timed functions, like intermittent wipers, heated screens, interior lights not working?

YES:

Central Timer module faulty.

Use diagnostic to find the error with the central timer:

A. Switch on ignition
B. Hold in rear heated windscreen button for a count of 10.
C. While holding the button in, start engine

D. Release button.
E. The unit is now in diagnostic mode. everything which uses the unit will beep to indicate it's fully operational.
i.e. open a door and if the door switch is ok, you will get a beep to confirm this.

 

Interior lights, remote control not working and fuses okay?

YES:

Battery Saver relay (R16 in auxiliary fuse box) faulty

 

Instrument lights fail?

 

Instrument, Interior lights not working, but CC panel still lights and headlights work normally?

YES:

Check rear of headlights switch for loose connection/overheated multiplug

 

Instruments and Clock lights go dim and finally die?

YES:

Check rear of headlights switch pin 15 for loose/overheated connection

 

One-touch closing window stops working

Change of/ disconnected battery?

YES:

No fault - Reprogram the window positions: fully lower the window then press and hold the down button for 1 second, raise the window till closed and press and hold up button for 1 second.

NO:

1. Try reprogramming as above - system volts may have dropped too low.

2. Change door module

 

Electric seat reclines

Seat will not return to upright?

YES:

Seat module blown - replace

 

Instruments flick round on starting

New battery?

YES:

No fault - Modules resetting

NO:

1. Voltage drops below reset level - discharge test battery - replace

2. Check alternator output - use Instrument reset to read voltage

3. Instruments don't work? Check module

 

Trip computer won't work No change when buttons are pressed?

YES:

1. Button contacts dirty - dismantle - careful because of springs - and clean with switch cleaner or suitable solvent

2  Replace unit (FINIS 7142892)

 

Instruments only show halfway When cold?

YES:

Faulty soldering on instrument module board

 

Speedo erratic? Speedo needle jumps about - autobox changes badly?

YES:

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) faulty

 

Charging problems

Battery discharges overnight?

YES:

1. Check alternator diodes pack

2. Check discharge rate - short to earth

 

Charge warning light flickers?

YES:

1. Check multiplug beneath battery shelf

2. Check alternator output - diode pack fault

 

Electrics dead, then returns?

YES:

Low battery voltage - Check battery

 

Charge warning light does not illuminate at all?

YES:

Bulb blown - replace asap because battery is not charging when this bulb has blown

 

AIRBAG WARNING ILLUMINATES Airbag light flashes from startup?

YES:

1. Airbags will not fire while this light flashes and is an MOT fail.  Common problem is the clock spring connection loose beneath airbag in steering wheel

2. The airbag light flashes a code: a single flash is code 1, 2 flashes and a pause is code 2 etc.

 

Rear running lights flicker/do not come on On saloon?

YES:

1. Lighting loom chafing on plastic loom cover - check the loom at the hinge and repair as necessary

2. Corrosion/damp on rear light units bulb connections

 

Door ajar warning Door ajar warning icon shows door open when it is closed?

YES:

1. The door ajar warning switch is included in the locking module on each door - replace

 

central locking fails Remote locking works intermittently even after reprogramming?

YES:

1. Check that fuel cut-off switch is fully depressed

 

ALARM SOUNDS Vehicle secure?

YES:

1. Check bonnet switch

2. Check system voltage not below 11 volts - failing battery/alternator

3. Check battery shelf is dry - if not clear drain holes

 

And PATS led stays lit but engine starts, doors unlock themselves etc?

YES:

Faulty fuel cut off switch in boot

Estate alarm sounds after 45 seconds?

YES:

Check shatter-detectors on rear windows for open circuit - substitute 20 ohm resistor

 

AIR CONDITIONING/CLIMATE CONTROL CONCERNS

Both fans run on low speed

AC on?

YES:

No fault - this is normal operation

 

One fan only runs on high speed

When hot?

YES:

Faulty connection/motor on non-running fan

 

Both fans run on high speed

AC on and high engine temperature?

NO:

1. Fault with high-pressure switch

2. Fault with HBC control

YES:

No fault - Normal operation for high temperature

 

No cold air to feet

Climate Control on?

YES:

Module needs resetting

 

AC not cold enough

AC/CC switched on?

YES:

1. Insufficient gas in system - needs recharging and check for gas leaks

2. CC needs CC mod

 

heater/blower resets after changing fan speed

Changing fan speed turns HBC off ?

YES:

1. Faulty fan speed switch

no air from outside

CC switched on?

YES:

1. Vacuum pipe/vacuum system to evaporator failed

2. Vacuum accumulator on evaporator failed

 

CC does not operate

Number shown on passenger side temperature display?

YES:

1. The number is a fault code

2. Wide Open Throttle (WOT) relay failed

 

AC blower not working

Switch works in high but not low speeds?

YES:

Thermal fuse in blower switch blown

NO:

Repair resistance wires in blower switch

 

AC cold then warm AC runs but then cooling stops?

YES:

Test de-ice switch

 

Lack of air thru vents Insufficient air flow?

YES:

1. Change pollen filters in evaporator chamber

2. CC models - reset module

 

Windscreen mists up

On nearside when CC is turned on?

Clear water drips into footwell?

YES:

AC drain pipes blocked

Internal coolant leak Coolant drips into footwell, curry smell from air vents?

YES:

Heater matrix leaking

 

Heater motor Noisy or non-running?

YES:

Change motor or replace evaporator unit

 

Compressor does not run

CC/AC on?

YES:
1. High-pressure switch fault

2. Compressor clutch fault

3. Insufficient gas pressure

4. Wide Open Throttle (WOT) relay faulty

 

SQUEAL when AC/CC turned on Compressor turning?

YES:

Replace drivebelt

NO:

Compressor seized

 

AC/CC work needed Recommended dealers?

YES:

Air Conditioning dealers recommended

 

water drips from engine bulkhead CC/AC on recently?

YES:

No fault - AC/CC Evaporator extracts moisture from humid air and this freezes on the heat exchanger plates.  This thaws as compressor cycles off and drains through tubes in the engine bulkhead and is quite normal.

 

INTERIOR CONCERNS

self-dipping mirror Dark spot in centre?

YES:

Mirror is failing - it is affected by heat of high summer. If the fluid starts to leak it will melt the plastic centre console beneath it - 'Alien Blood' syndrome.

1. A temporary repair can be made to prevent the fluid leaking and preserve its appearance, or

2. Replace before the fluid leaks.

Although the failure may also be affected by ageing, dark coloured cars should:

a: Park facing away from sun

b: Use a sun shield on the windscreen keeping the mirror out of direct sunlight

c: Tilt the sunroof (where fitted) very slightly to allow heat to escape from the roof area

 

Instrument panel Bulbs blown?

YES:

Remove fascia and replace bulbs

 

Instrument panel lights not working But CC panel lights still on and headlights work normally?

YES:

Check rear of headlight switch for loose connection.

 

SUNROOF does not open Whirring noise from motor?

YES:

Sunroof jammed and stripped motor gears

NO:

Check fuse F28 in main fuse box

 

SUNROOF OPENS slowly Slow and reluctant movement?

YES:

Grease mechanism before cog is damaged

 

Water pours from front interior light After rain?

YES:

With stiff wire clear the four drain pipes from sunroof emerging behind front and rear wheels

 

front footwells wet After rain?

YES:

Check the battery shelf drain holes - if water puddles there it can run down the wiring looms into the front footwell and can also cause fuse box problems

NO:

1. Check evaporator drain pipes

2. Check heater matrix for leaking coolant - also associated with a 'curry' smell inside the car

 

CD player fails Will not play?

YES:

1. Check the wiring about 4 to 6 inches back from the plug and check the wrap-around earth connection, solder as necessary.

2. Check the multiplug connection

3. Some printed circuit boards inside the CD Player have failed, possibly because of vibration - these can be re-soldered or taken to a specialist

 

Poor MW/LW reception and hiss on FM distant signals? Metal object held against aerial has no effect on MW/LW?

YES:

1. Check aerial connection at rear of radio - cable grounded to case

2. Check the cable at antenna base behind courtesy light and connection to/condition of insulated end of antenna

 

2007 radio reception poor Dropping out of signal, briefly selecting different channels?

YES:

AF function swapping frequencies on poor signal - to cure turn RDS off.  2007 radios cannot turn AF function off.

 

Later 5000-7000 radios not affected.

 

     

EXTERIOR CONCERNS

Wipers broken Wiper activating rod dropped off?

YES:

This can be repaired or replaced

 

Door lock broken Key will not operate door lock?

YES:

Rebuild the lock, or replace it

 

headlight symmetry - driving in europe Need to change headlights to LHD?

YES:

No masks needed - change symmetry

 

Estate tailgate Rattles over uneven ground?

YES:

Repair the tailgate latch pin

 

remote does not work Car left for more than 90 hours?

YES:

No fault - the radio control module has been shut down to conserve battery.  The fob will work again after the engine has been run.

NO:

1. Batteries need replacing - CR2016, X 2 then reprogram

2. Dirty contacts or worn membrane buttons

3. Check that fuel cut-off switch is fully depressed

 

EricR

 

 

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