Concern

Symptom

Advice

WILL NOT START

Was battery disconnected?

YES:

1. Check that all leads have been reconnected - a small lead is often missed

2. Was ignition left on when battery was reconnected? This powers up the modules in the wrong order - disconnect battery, turn ignition and all electrical loads off first, then reconnect battery again.

3. No voltage to INJectors with ignition turned on? - faulty fuel pump relay, replace

NO:

1.  Check the PATS led on top of dashboard.  Is it flashing a code?

2. Check Injection Cut-Off switch in boot

3. Check Fuses F16 and F17 in main fuse box

4. Check F31, F34, F37 and F42 in auxiliary fuse box

5.  Check Relay R17 and R19 in Auxiliary fuse box

6. Get OBD reading - suspect CKP or CMP sensors

7. Check main fuse box for water contamination

 When engine is hot?

YES:

Fuel pressure regulator faulty - excess FR pressure

 When engine is cold?

YES:

Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

With other electrical problems - lights coming on, fans running on, etc

YES:

1. Vehicles built before June 1996 - Arnitel wiring looms

2. Vehicle built after 06/96 - fuse box contamination

No power to INJectors?

YES:

Check fuel injection relay with ignition turned off and on again - INJectors are switched off after 1 second of turning without a cylinder firing to protect catalyst(s)

Starter clicks without engaging?

YES:

1. Low battery - check brightness of headlights

2. Starter solenoid stuck/contacts dirty

NO:

Battery completely flat

Starter rapid-clicks without engaging?

YES:

1. Insufficient charge in battery to close the solenoid - battery or alternator failing

2. Dirty/worn starter solenoid contacts - clean or replace

Automatic - starter will not operate?

YES:

1. Check Starter Inhibitor Relay R11 in central fuse box

2. Check gear selector linkage

Engine turns over but does not fire?

YES:

1. Check fuses F31, F34, F37, F42

2. OBD check for faulty CKP sensor and/or CMP sensor

Will not restart?

YES:

1. Clean contacts on Fuel Pump Relay - if too hot to the touch it is faulty - replace

STARTS BUT POOR RUNNING

Idle poor?

YES:

1. Check engine loom for cracked wiring - DOHC

2. Check ignition modules - DOHC

3. Check all spark plugs are tight, ignition leads

4. Check TPS position in OBD - should be 16%

5. Check inlet manifold(s) for air leaks

6. DOHC2300 check plastic inlet manifold for cracks

7. Clean IACV valve

Racing idle?

YES:

1. Petrol tank empty

2. Air leak in petrol filler pipe

3. Leak in EVAP system

4. Leak in Vacuum system

5. Work through Idle Probs

Sudden loss of power - severe rattle from engine area?

YES:

1. Catalyst element broken - impeding exhaust flow

Severe misfire - loss of power?

YES:

1. Water inside spark plug cavities after jetwashing

Missing at part throttle?

YES:

1. Check engine loom - DOHC

2. Check condition of EGR valve (all engines)

3. Check via OBD for EGR faults - loose pipe

4. Check via OBD for flatlining HO2S sensor(s)

5. Check for air inlet leaks

Slight idle misfire?

YES:

1. Check spark plugs for tightness

2. Check condition of HT leads

2. 12V V6 - check distributor cap and rotor arm, clean/replace

Lack of power - pinking?

YES:

1. Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

2. Fuel filter not changed

3. Check OBD for fuel pump DTCs

Engine stalls when hot?

YES:

1. Clean IACV valve and/or replace

2. Fuel pressure regulator faulty - insufficient FR pressure

Flat spot - 24V?

YES:

1. Effect of VIS on power curve

Engine races then stalls?

YES:

MAF unit failed closed or open circuit

Runs rough when hot - after work on engine?

YES:

Check air inlet hose was not dislodged by leaning on it

Engine stalls when steering to full lock?

YES:

Power Steering Pressure (PSP) switch faulty or disconnected

YES:

AC Compressor seized: disconnect electrical plug on top of compressor until it can be replaced

RUNS WELL BUT ...

Heavy fuel Consumption?

YES:

1. Check spark plugs and leads, air filter (service)

2. Check tyre pressures

3. Dirty/gummed INJectors - use injector cleaner

4. Check Brakes for binding

5. Check via OBD for OPEN LOOP fuelling - Faulty/dirty MAF/faulty HO2S sensors

6. Autos - check rpm at 70mph - is the Torque Converter Clutch locking up correctly?

7. Faulty thermostat - stuck open

8. Faulty ECT or IAT - causing 'cold' fuelling

9. Faulty Autobox or torque converter

Hanging Throttle - engine RPM high briefly after releasing accelerator

YES:

Throttle plate gummed up - clean inside throttle body with carb cleaner around throttle plate (butterfly)

24V: brief rattle on cold start?

YES:

1. Timing chain rattle, offside tensioner draining overnight

2. Loose catalyst flange bolts

3. Worn drive-belt tensioner - run briefly with drive belt off to confirm

4.  Recently changed oil to Synthetic? Oil frothing as it mixes - this will pass.

Chuffing noise when cold?

YES:

1. Loose exhaust manifold to catalyst flange

Squeal from front of engine, when cold/steering?

YES:

1. Worn drive-belts

Rattle from front of engine?

YES:

1. Worn drive-belt tensioner

2. A/C Compressor worn or gas pressure low

3. Power Steering pump worn or fluid low

---- confirm above by briefly running without drive belt -----

4. Broken catalyst ceramic element

5. 24V 'Tick' noise - Timing chain slapping

TAPPING NOISE FROM TOP OF ENGINE - 12V V6

Tappet(s) noisy?

YES:

12V tappets are hydraulic and should not need adjusting - if noisy check:

1. Correct grade of oil (5W-30 mineral, 10W-30 semi-synthetic) and use an oil flush treatment and good quality oil filter

2. Recently changed oil to Synthetic? Oil frothing as it mixes - this will pass

3. Run a compression test to determine level of engine wear - check oil pressure when hot at idle - engine may need full overhaul in the long term

FAILS MOT on EMISSIONS

HC or CO too high?

YES:

1. Check MAF for correct reading

2. OBD check - Flatlining HO2S sensors leading to OPEN LOOP

3. OBD check - switch-rate of post catalyst HO2S - catalyst(s) failing

YES:

1.  Check coolant for HC or CO contamination BEFORE deciding that cylinder head gasket has failed.

2.  Change Thermostat before replacing radiator

NO:

Replace radiator - 24V owners recommended to change thermostat as well

YES:

Leak between V of cylinder heads effecting Loom

Cannot find leak?

also clutch judder?

YES:

1. Check bottom of bellhousing for coolant - rear core plug leaking behind flywheel/driveplate

NO CLUTCH JUDDER:

2. Leaking core plugs on each side of engine block

3. Check oil/coolant heat exchanger at oil filter

4. Check carpets beneath car heater - leak from matrix

5. 24V - check between V of cylinder heads for heater pipe

6. Check water pump spindle

YES:

1. Automatics - check condition of autobox fluid - coolant radiator may be leaking into gearbox fluid thru heat exchanger in coolant radiator

YES:

Water pump spindle leaking

CLEAR Water runs from rear of engine

AC/CC on and coolant level does not fall?

YES:

No fault - AC/CC Evaporator extracts moisture from humid air entering the cabin and this freezes on the heat exchanger plates.  This thaws as compressor cycles off and drains through tubes in the engine bulkhead

YES:

Check small upper hose on expansion tank for blockage

YES:

1. Check thermostat opening in hot water, 88°C - replace

2. Check fans operating:

A. Both fans come on when hot, and/or when AC/CC is switched on

B.  Both fans come on at high speed when very hot.

3. Radiator blockage - drain, flush and back-flush system, refill with good-quality antifreeze, 60%

Automatic Gearbox A4LDE?

Auto fails to select gear - revs rise then thumps into gear

Autobox dipstick shows fluid brown/burnt/black bits OBD shows DTCs ?

YES:

Fluid overheated caused by failing drive bands, black bits are worn seals - failure imminent

NO:

Fluid still pink - sticking solenoid needs replacing only.

YES:

 Autobox wiring loom fault

YES:

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) faulty

NO:

1. Solenoids sticking/faulty

2. Transmission Range (TR) sensor faulty

3. Wiring fault/ faulty multiplug into gearbox

Several seconds to select D or N

Autobox dipstick shows fluid brown/burnt/black bits?

YES:

Autobox failure imminent

NO:

1. Check fluid level when hot on level surface - if low top up and check for cause of fluid leak

2. Main line pressure solenoid sticking, check OBD

Sudden loss of fluid

Fluid seen beneath radiator?

YES:

Check autobox coolant pipes behind radiator

Vibration felt when accelerating

Feels like a cattle grid?

YES:

Cattle grid syndrome

Autobox thumps into gear slightly

OBD DTC shows Incorrect ratio error?

YES:

1. Clean MAF

2. Test MAF and replace if necessary

YES:

Old EECV programming

Idle poor? Surging?

DTC P1022 is set?

YES:

Check TPS value. Should be 16% - if lower then this may set the DTC P0122. If so, disconnect battery for 30 seconds to force a resynch.

Alarm sounds when gear selection is in P

Drivers door is closed?

YES:

1. Door ajar switch is broken/shorted

2. Maladjusted selector lever

3. Faulty TR (PRNGL) sensor

YES:

Consider changing autobox filter and fluid

Refuses to engage higher gears?

 also speedo needle jumps or stays at 0?

YES:

1. VSS sensor faulty

2. Wiring loom fault

YES:

OBDII does not apply to the 12V A4LD autobox - use STAR codes instead

Manual Gearbox  MT75

Clutch judder

Unexplained coolant loss?

YES:

1. Rear core plug leaking into bellhousing contaminating clutch

NO:

1. Poss. rear oil seal leaking, contaminating clutch plate

2. Broken clutch plate spring(s)

Clutch slips

Clicking from bellhousing when clutch is pressed?

YES:

Broken/seized thrust bearing

NO:

Worn clutch driven plate - replace asap or clutch pressure plate will be damaged

Clutch does not operate

Clutch pedal low resistance?

YES:

1. Clutch hydraulic fluid low/leaking, air in system

1st gear difficult to engage

Revs rise/clutch slips?

YES:

Driven plate worn

NO:

1. Contaminated driven plate dragging on pressure plate

2. Badly adjusted clutch pedal travel

YES:

Broken flywheel spigot bush (first motion shaft bush in flywheel).

High pitched squeal

When clutch operates?

YES:

Worn thrust bearing

NO:

Drive belts worn

All models

YES:

Check Centre Bearing

NO:

1. Check Rubber flexible bearing (doughnut)

2. Check Universal joints on propshaft

YES:

1. Propshaft out of balance - flange bolts not replaced correctly

2. Check Differential insulator mounting plate

3. Check drive shaft CV joints

YES:

Replace CV joints on the side of the turn, outer first.

YES:

1. Preload on diff pinion nut worn out

2. Worn differential gear teeth

NO:

Check CV joints on rear drive shafts (4)

NO:

1. Check for excessive tyre pressures

2. Check rear hubnuts

3. Noises from rear on corners - failing rear hub bearings

YES:

1. Check wear on track rod ends, steering rack bushes

2. Check lower ball joint on front radius arms

3. Check inner radius arm bushes

YES:

1. Check tracking

2. Check alignment of rear wheels for 'crabbing'

YES:

Under-inflated tyre pressures

YES:

1. Excessive toe-in.  Check tracking

2. Check track rods for damage

3. Check steering rack bushes, radius arm bushes

YES:

1. Excessive toe-out - check tracking

2. Check steering rack bushes, radius arm bushes

YES

Over inflated tyre pressures - check

YES:

1. Check tie rod on anti-roll bar

2. Loose front brake pads

3. Brake Calliper seized on mounting bolts so not centering

YES:

Check radius arm bushes for movement of pin inside rubber bush

YES:

Check radius arm bushes - try squirting with WD40  - if it silences the noise they need changing.

YES:

Check radius arm bushes by lifting wheels and pulling pushing them while watching the two rubber bushes connecting the radius arm to the subframe - any movement, replace.

YES:

Steering wheel not centred with steering column

NO:

1. Indicator cancel bush on steering column broken

2. Indicator switch broken

YES:

1. Front wheel(s) rim dented

2. Tyres out of balance

NO:

Warped tyre, wheel damage

YES:

1. Check rear link arms

2. Lower shock absorber bushes worn

3. Check top shock absorber mounting bolt beneath carpet in boot/luggage deck - torque to 85 Nm

YES:

No fault - steering is readjusting to loaded condition, judder will pass quickly

NO:

Steering design fault - high pressure steering pipe needs replacing with updated design

YES:

1. Rear hub nut loose (after work carried out)

1. Rear hub failing

YES:

1. Top hose leaking beneath reservoir - trim or replace

2. Steering rack bush(es) failed - fluid in steering bellows (gaiters) - replace steering rack

Brake judder

Only on light braking?

YES:

Light corrosion on brake disk

NO:

1. Brake disks warped/corroded

2. Worn/failing bushes on front suspension radius arms

Brakes 'snatch'

Difficult to 'feather' brakes to a stop?

YES:

Brake pads worn - replace brake pads

Handbrake does not hold

Too much handbrake lever movement?

YES:

1. Cable fulcrum outside rear calliper seized

2. Rear calliper internals not self-adjusting brake piston

NO:

1. Badly corroded rear brake disks

Brake fluid level falls

Very slowly?

YES:

No fault - front brake callipers adjust themselves and need more fluid from master reservoir

NO:

Sudden drop in brake fluid means a fluid leak - check all calipers and master cylinder for source of leak

Brake PEDAL VIBRATES oddly

Odd sensation on pedal under light braking and starting off?

YES:

No fault - ABS module tests the modulator by firing each solenoid in turn during the moving ABS test.  This can cause an odd sensation very occasionally if you are  braking lightly at the same time.

ABS light illuminates

On starting?

YES:

ABS Start-up diagnostic test fails - no ABS operation, but brakes will still operate.  MOT fail. Sensor or module or modulator fault

Above 11mph?

YES:

ABS Running diagnostic test fails - MOT fail.  OBD ISO/PWM leads can read ABS codes.

1. Check tyre pressures for high variance

2. Failing wheel hub or loose hub nut

3. Faulty sensor

4. Faulty ABS controller

Over uneven ground?

and TCS light on?

1. Turn engine off and restart - if light goes out and remains out No Fault

2: If light comes on again follow advice on ABS Faults

3. The TCS shares only the rear ABS sensors, so if the TCS light illuminates as well as the ABS check those sensors first.

Lights stay on - fans stay on - other strange electrical gremlins

Battery cover fitted?

NO:

Fuse box or auxillary waterlogged

YES:

Battery shelf drain holes blocked

Headlights stay on

Headlights switched off?

YES:

Check rear of headlight switch - overheated and shorting

Headlights  fail to come on

Headlights (or other single circuit) dead?

YES:

Check underneath main Fuse box for loose/faulty connection

YES:

Central Timer module faulty.

Use diagnostic to find the error with the central timer:

A. Switch on ignition
B. Hold in rear heated windscreen button for a count of 10.
C. While holding the button in, start engine

D. Release button.
E. The unit is now in diagnostic mode. everything which uses the unit will beep to indicate it's fully operational.
i.e. open a door and if the door switch is ok, you will get a beep to confirm this.

YES:

Battery Saver relay (R16 in auxiliary fuse box) faulty

Instrument lights fail?

Instrument, Interior lights not working, but CC panel still lights and headlights work normally?

YES:

Check rear of headlights switch for loose connection/overheated multiplug

Instruments and Clock lights go dim and finally die?

YES:

Check rear of headlights switch pin 15 for loose/overheated connection

One-touch closing window stops working

Change of/ disconnected battery?

YES:

No fault - Reprogram the window positions: fully lower the window then press and hold the down button for 1 second, raise the window till closed and press and hold up button for 1 second.

NO:

1. Try reprogramming as above - system volts may have dropped too low.

2. Change door module

Electric seat reclines

Seat will not return to upright?

YES:

Seat module blown - replace

Instruments flick round on starting

New battery?

YES:

No fault - Modules resetting

NO:

1. Voltage drops below reset level - discharge test battery - replace

2. Check alternator output - use Instrument reset to read voltage

3. Instruments don't work? Check module

YES:

1. Button contacts dirty - dismantle - careful because of springs - and clean with switch cleaner or suitable solvent

2  Replace unit (FINIS 7142892)

YES:

Faulty soldering on instrument module board

YES:

Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) faulty

Charging problems

Battery discharges overnight?

YES:

1. Check alternator diodes pack

2. Check discharge rate - short to earth

Charge warning light flickers?

YES:

1. Check multiplug beneath battery shelf

2. Check alternator output - diode pack fault

Electrics dead, then returns?

YES:

Low battery voltage - Check battery

Charge warning light does not illuminate at all?

YES:

Bulb blown - replace asap because battery is not charging when this bulb has blown

YES:

1. Airbags will not fire while this light flashes and is an MOT fail.  Common problem is the clock spring connection loose beneath airbag in steering wheel

2. The airbag light flashes a code: a single flash is code 1, 2 flashes and a pause is code 2 etc.

YES:

1. Lighting loom chafing on plastic loom cover - check the loom at the hinge and repair as necessary

2. Corrosion/damp on rear light units bulb connections

YES:

1. The door ajar warning switch is included in the locking module on each door - replace

YES:

1. Check that fuel cut-off switch is fully depressed

YES:

1. Check bonnet switch

2. Check system voltage not below 11 volts - failing battery/alternator

3. Check battery shelf is dry - if not clear drain holes

YES:

Faulty fuel cut off switch in boot

YES:

Check shatter-detectors on rear windows for open circuit - substitute 20 ohm resistor

Both fans run on low speed

AC on?

YES:

No fault - this is normal operation

One fan only runs on high speed

When hot?

YES:

Faulty connection/motor on non-running fan

Both fans run on high speed

AC on and high engine temperature?

NO:

1. Fault with high-pressure switch

2. Fault with HBC control

YES:

No fault - Normal operation for high temperature

No cold air to feet

Climate Control on?

YES:

Module needs resetting

AC not cold enough

AC/CC switched on?

YES:

1. Insufficient gas in system - needs recharging and check for gas leaks

2. CC needs CC mod

heater/blower resets after changing fan speed

Changing fan speed turns HBC off ?

YES:

1. Faulty fan speed switch

no air from outside

CC switched on?

YES:

1. Vacuum pipe/vacuum system to evaporator failed

2. Vacuum accumulator on evaporator failed

CC does not operate

Number shown on passenger side temperature display?

YES:

1. The number is a fault code

2. Wide Open Throttle (WOT) relay failed

AC blower not working

Switch works in high but not low speeds?

YES:

Thermal fuse in blower switch blown

NO:

Repair resistance wires in blower switch

YES:

Test de-ice switch

YES:

1. Change pollen filters in evaporator chamber

2. CC models - reset module

On nearside when CC is turned on?

Clear water drips into footwell?

YES:

AC drain pipes blocked

YES:

Heater matrix leaking

YES:

Change motor or replace evaporator unit

CC/AC on?

YES:
1. High-pressure switch fault

2. Compressor clutch fault

3. Insufficient gas pressure

4. Wide Open Throttle (WOT) relay faulty

YES:

Replace drivebelt

NO:

Compressor seized

YES:

Air Conditioning dealers recommended

YES:

No fault - AC/CC Evaporator extracts moisture from humid air and this freezes on the heat exchanger plates.  This thaws as compressor cycles off and drains through tubes in the engine bulkhead and is quite normal.

YES:

Mirror is failing - it is affected by heat of high summer. If the fluid starts to leak it will melt the plastic centre console beneath it - 'Alien Blood' syndrome.

1. A temporary repair can be made to prevent the fluid leaking and preserve its appearance, or

2. Replace before the fluid leaks.

Although the failure may also be affected by ageing, dark coloured cars should:

a: Park facing away from sun

b: Use a sun shield on the windscreen keeping the mirror out of direct sunlight

c: Tilt the sunroof (where fitted) very slightly to allow heat to escape from the roof area

YES:

Remove fascia and replace bulbs

YES:

Check rear of headlight switch for loose connection.

YES:

Sunroof jammed and stripped motor gears

NO:

Check fuse F28 in main fuse box

YES:

Grease mechanism before cog is damaged

YES:

With stiff wire clear the four drain pipes from sunroof emerging behind front and rear wheels

YES:

Check the battery shelf drain holes - if water puddles there it can run down the wiring looms into the front footwell and can also cause fuse box problems

NO:

1. Check evaporator drain pipes

2. Check heater matrix for leaking coolant - also associated with a 'curry' smell inside the car

YES:

1. Check the wiring about 4 to 6 inches back from the plug and check the wrap-around earth connection, solder as necessary.

2. Check the multiplug connection

3. Some printed circuit boards inside the CD Player have failed, possibly because of vibration - these can be re-soldered or taken to a specialist

YES:

1. Check aerial connection at rear of radio - cable grounded to case

2. Check the cable at antenna base behind courtesy light and connection to/condition of insulated end of antenna

YES:

AF function swapping frequencies on poor signal - to cure turn RDS off.  2007 radios cannot turn AF function off.

Later 5000-7000 radios not affected.

YES:

This can be repaired or replaced

YES:

Rebuild the lock, or replace it

YES:

No masks needed - change symmetry

YES:

Repair the tailgate latch pin

YES:

No fault - the radio control module has been shut down to conserve battery.  The fob will work again after the engine has been run.

NO:

1. Batteries need replacing - CR2016, X 2 then reprogram

2. Dirty contacts or worn membrane buttons

3. Check that fuel cut-off switch is fully depressed